Holes
Bar thickness
The block
Printed holes come out small. 0.2 mm lets the drill turn without wobble.
- Length
- -
- Width
- -
- Thick
- -
- Across
- -
- Radius step
- -
Local onlyThe jig is built and checked by JavaScript in this tab, and the STL is made on your computer. Your settings are remembered in this browser's local storage, and nothing is uploaded.
A circle is easy once the router turns on a fixed center. This bar pins at the middle of your circle and carries the router out at the radius you want. The pivot is one hole; the cutter holes are set out along the bar, each one radius step further, so a single bar routs a few sizes.
What each setting does
Pin and bit diameter. The hole that takes the pivot pin, and the holes the router pivots around. Set it to your pin, and mount the router over the cutter hole you want. The number you set is the finished hole; a little clearance is added so a printed hole passes cleanly.
Holes and radius step. The first hole is the pivot. Each hole after it sits one radius step further along the bar, so with three holes and a 50 mm step you get cutter positions at 50 and 100 mm from the pivot. The radius is the distance from the pivot to the cutter hole you use.
Bar length and thickness. Make the bar a little longer than your biggest radius, and thick enough that it does not flex. 8 mm of PETG is stiff for a short bar; go thicker for a long one.
Printing it
The bar prints flat, no supports. Use PETG for stiffness, 100% infill or at least 5 walls, and 0.2 mm layers. Screw the router's sub-base to the bar through the cutter hole, or drill the bar to match your router's base holes.
Before you download
The file is read back before the button turns on: every edge shared by exactly two triangles, every face pointing outward, a positive volume. If the holes overlap or run off the bar, the page says why instead of giving you a broken file.
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