The handle
Center to center is the gap between the two screws on the back of the handle. Measure your own, because the box is often rounded.
The template
Printed holes come out small. 0.2 mm lets the drill turn without wobble.
- Length
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- Width
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- Height
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- Plate
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- Fence
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Local onlyThe jig is built and checked by JavaScript in this tab, and the STL is made on your computer. Your settings are remembered in this browser's local storage, and nothing is uploaded.
Drill a pull a little crooked and you only see it once the drawer is on and the finish is dry, and by then you are making a new front. This page draws a template you print, hook over the edge of the door or drawer, and drill through. Both screw holes come out level, the right distance apart, and the same height on every drawer in the run.
What each setting does
Pull or knob. A pull has two screws, so you set the center-to-center. A knob has one, so the spacing field goes away and the template drills a single hole.
Center to center. The gap between the two screws on the back of the handle. 96, 128 and 160 mm are the common sizes, and in inches 3, 3.75, 5 and 6.25. Measure your own handle rather than trusting the box, because the printed number is often rounded. Set that number and both holes come out exactly that far apart.
Setback from the edge. How far the holes sit in from the edge you hook. On a drawer that is usually the drop from the top edge; on a door it is the distance in from the stile. Keep it the same on every piece so the handles line up across the whole kitchen.
Centering it. The holes are centered along the plate, so the middle of the template is the point halfway between them. Mark the center of the drawer front, line the middle of the template up with that mark, hook the fence, and drill. That is what keeps the handle in the middle.
Fence depth and front thickness. The fence is the lip that hooks the edge and sets the setback. Make it at least as deep as the front is thick so it grips the whole edge. Enter the front thickness and the preview shows the template on a front that size.
Printing it
The STL comes out flat on the drilling face with the fence pointing up, so nothing needs supports. Use PLA+ or PETG, 100% infill or at least 4 walls, and 0.2 mm layers. If you are drilling a whole kitchen, choose the bushing option and press a steel bushing into each hole, because a drill turning in bare plastic slowly wears the hole oversize.
Before you download
The file is read back before the button turns on: every edge has to be shared by exactly two triangles, every face has to point outward, and the solid has to have a positive volume. When a setting cannot make a sound template, such as a hole that would cut into the fence, the page says why instead of handing you a broken file.
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