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A timing belt around two pulleys has to be just the right length, snug without straining the bearings. This works it out from the two pulley diameters and the distance between their centers, and turns it into a tooth count so you can order the right GT2 or HTD belt.
Pitch diameter, not the edge
Measure, or look up, the pitch diameter of each pulley, which is where the belt's teeth actually sit, not the outside of the flanges. For GT2 it is the tooth count times 2 divided by pi, so a 20-tooth pulley is 12.73 mm. Using the outer diameter throws the length off by a few millimeters, which is enough to matter on a closed loop.
The length and the teeth
The belt wraps half of each pulley plus the two straight runs between them, with a small correction when the pulleys are different sizes. Divide that length by the belt pitch and you have the tooth count. GT2, the printer standard, is a 2 mm pitch, so a 400 mm belt is 200 teeth. HTD and T5 use different pitches, so set the pitch to match your belt.
Closed loop or cut to length
Closed-loop belts come in set tooth counts, so pick the nearest one at or just under your figure and let the pulley spacing or a tensioner take up the slack. For an axis that clamps both belt ends to a carriage, like a printer's X or Y, you buy open-ended belt off a roll and cut it, and the exact standard length does not matter.
Getting the tension right
Aim for snug, not tight. A belt stretched hard loads the pulley bearings and the motor shaft and wears everything faster; a slack belt skips teeth and loses position. Set the center distance from this length, then fine-tune with a tensioner until the belt is firm and plucks with a low, clean note.
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